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But before you read on, its worth noting that you should always carry a spare tyre in your car that’s in full working order. Or, if your car doesn’t come with one, carry a puncture repair kit and a compressor with you.
Take a look below at Trusted Dealers’ step-by-step guide to changing a flat tyre:
Always make sure the car is on flat, level ground – you’ll be jacking the car up so it’s important to make sure the car is not in risk of falling off the jack at any point. Check also that the ground is firm and will therefore support the weight of the car when it’s lifted, to prevent the car from pushing the jack further into the ground when you are jacking it up and possibly causing it to get stuck.
Find your locking wheel nut (usually located in the glove box or near the spare wheel), and find your car’s user manual. The manual will tell you where to locate your car’s jack and wheel brace and how to use them properly to prevent further damage to your car. It should also tell you how to remove your spare wheel correctly.
To prevent your car from moving, before you jack it up, make sure the hand brake is on and the gear has been placed into first or reverse gear with the engine turned off (or Park mode if it’s an automatic). You can physically block your car to ensure it remains in the same position by using rocks or bricks and placing them in front and behind the wheel that is diametrically opposite the flat one. Or, try to park the car near to the kerb and turn the front wheel so that the wheels are pointing towards the kerb.
Loosen the wheel nuts or bolts before you jack up the car. Using the wheel brace, connect it to one of the nuts and turn – you may need to use your foot if the nut or bolt is particularly stiff to turn. When it becomes loose, turn the wheel brace by hand to loosen it further, but don’t remove the nuts completely until you’ve jacked it up.
Make sure your spare wheel has been removed from the car and is lying next to you on the ground – you can normally find your spare wheel located with the jack in a compartment below the boot floor. To position the jack, check your car’s manual – it is usually positioned beneath the front or rear window either just behind the front wheel arch, or just in front of the rear one, depending on whether you’re changing a front or rear wheel.
Wind the jack up until the flat tyre is clear of the ground, if at any point the car feels like it might slip or the jack starts to lean, stop immediately and wind the jack back in the opposite direction. Using the wheel brace, fully remove the wheel nuts then slide the wheel off the hub. Be prepared for the wheel to be quite heavy!
If your car’s wheel was fastened with nuts, you can then slide the four or five holes in the wheel over the threaded studs the original wheel was mounted on. If your car’s wheel was fastened with bolts, you’ll have to hang the wheel onto the hub without the aid of threads and keep it there with your hand, or ask a passenger to support the weight of the wheel to make it easier for you to then line up the holes with the bolt holes in the hub
Screw the nuts or bolts back on – avoid using the wheel brace just yet but screw them as tightly as you can by hand. Wind the jack down until the car is back on the ground, then use the wheel brace to tighten up the wheel nuts/bolts – use your foot to push the wheel brace further so that the nuts/bolts are as tight as possible.
All you need to do now is put your old wheel in the boot and put away your wheel brace and jack and remember to remove any rocks or bricks from the wheels if you used them.
If your spare wheel is a space saving – smaller and narrower than your other wheels, you’ll be limited to a 50mph speed limit. To double check how fast you can go check the warning labels printed on the wheel itself. You are now ready to continue with your journey – well done!